RE A 




AND BREAD-MAKIMG 



wmmMmummiamBwummtmmmmniw 



T X 



Mrs S T Rorer 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

COPYRIGHT OFFICE. 

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as a preliminary to copyright protec- 
tion has been found.>*A^ iT, tq o^^ 

Forwarded to Order Division APR 2_1>_1_903 

(Date) 



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BREAD AND 
BREAD-MAKING 



Copyright 1899 by 
SARAH TYSON RORFR 



TWO COPIES n:-^^iVc:o. 

Library of C0B«r«|ai 
O^nce of tlifi 

APP4-1900 

Keglttar of Copyrlgfcf^ 



BREAD 



AND BREAD-MAKING 



HOW TO MAKE MANY 
VARIETIES EASILY AND 
WITH THE BEST RESULTS 



By MRS S T RORER 

Director of Philadelphia Cooking School 
and Author of Mrs Rorer's Cook Book 
New Salads Canning and Preserving 
and various other works on Cookery 



I •) > 1 3 O J 

> ' 5 ^ J ' 5 3 3 ^5 : 



Published at Philadelphia by 
ARNOLD AND COMPANY 



Printed at the Sign of the Ivy 
Leaf in Philadelphia by George 
H Buchanan and Company 






&^ 



PREFACE 

THE object of this work is two- 
fold : first, to give in a concise 
and easily managed form, a set of 
recipes, used in every household, every 
day; secondly, to point out "the 
reasons why " we have failures, even 
with perfect recipes ; the flour, yeast 
and manipulations are of equal impor- 
tance. 

Every recipe in this little book, 
with well selected materials, has been 
tried by the author and many times by 
the pupils, with perfect results. 

SARAH TYSON RORER 




WHEAT 

All the grains used for bread 
makinor belono- to the order of 
Ghniiifiorce and to the great family 
of grasses, 6';7?;;//;/^<r^\ Wheat, occii- 
pyuig the most important place 
amonor them, has our first atten- 
tion. In order to understand the 

conditions of flour and 

Structure . . r u i 

the science ot bread 

making, we must first 

Gra.in • ^u ^ ^ 

examme the structure 

of the wheat grain, which is the 
fruit of the wheat plant. It con- 
sists first of an outside layer of 
bran, the "epidermis" or "cuti- 
cle;" then an inner layer of 
bran, which difiers from the " cuti- 
cle" in containing assimilable min- 
eral matter and is called the 
" epicarp." Next comes the last 
of the great enveloping layers of 



ii BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

the grain, composed of well rounded 
cells, inside of which is that portion 
of the grain richest in albuminoids. 
The great bulk of the centre of 
the grain is light in color, con- 
taining more starch granules and 
less glutin. While starch and 
glutin are found intimately associ- 
ated throughout the entire grain, 
glutin is more abundant near the 
bran layers, and starch near the 
centre. The inner portion^ the 
"endosperm," holds the "germ" or 
embryo, the life-spark of the grain ; 
which, under suitable conditions, 
will develop into a living wheat 
plant. The remaining part of the 
"endosperm" holds the food upon 
which the plant lives until it is able 
to obtain nourishment from other 
sources. 

In this country many 
Spring and . . r i ^ 

varieties ot wheat are 
winter , ^ r 

pfrown, but tor our pur- 
Whed ^ ' 1 • 1 1 

pose two kinds only 

need be considered : the hard spring 
and the soft winter wheats. The 



IV HE AT g 

first is sown in the spring and har- 
vested during the late summer, 
while the winter wheat is sown in 
the fall, remains in the ground all 
winter, and is harvested about the 
same time as spring wheat. Jago 
gives a comparative analysis as fol- 
lows : 

Winter Spring 

Wheat Wheat 

Fat 1.48 1.56 

Starch 63.71 65.86 

Cellulose 303 2.93 

Sugar 2.57 2.24 

Albumin, insoluble in alcohol f^"" '^^"^'' 10.70 7.1Q 

, ,, ■ , , , -< nitrogenous 
Albumin, soluble in alcohol I matter 4-^3 4 4° 

Moisture 12.08 14 08 

Mineral matter 1.60 1.74 

The care of the grain 
The Care of . ^ .... , 

previous to miUmg has 

TTr< / ^ great influence over the 
Wheat Grain ^ , , xr .i- 

starch orranules. If the 

o 

wheat is exposed to moisture or 
allowed to sprout, the starch 
granules become pitted or lined, and 
are more or less changed into 
dextrin. Flour made from such 
wheat produces a heavy, moist 
bread, which molds quickly and 
becomes damp and rather thread- 
like when a mass is pulled from the 



lo BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

centre of the loaf. These breads 
are hable to the common diseases 
of bread, even when great care and 
cleanhness is observed. 

With our present pro- 
MilUng cess of milHng we get a 

greater proportion of 
glutin from a given quantity of 
wheat than by the old-fashioned 
system. But to preserve the color 
of the flour, the outside layers of 
the grain containing the mineral 
matter are rejected. Thus it will 
be seen that while many white 
flours contain nearly as much glutin 
as whole wheat flour, they lack this 
one important constituent. We are 
also enabled to make a stronger 
flour from spring than from winter 
wheat, — one capable of taking up 
much more moisture, consequently 
making a greater volume of bread 
and of better strength. It seems, 
however, but a few years since that 
spring wheat flour was cheap and 
objectionable. It was difficult to 
mill, soft and sticky, and the glutin 



had little or no power of holding- 
water ; even pounding or kneading 
would not render it elastic. Bread 
made from the old spring wheat 
flour spread out down one's hands 
like soft rye. To give shape to the 
loaf deep pans were used. We 
observe in these days, however, 
directly the opposite : spring- wheat 
yields most quickly to kneading and 
working, and may be made into 
loaves which easily retain their 
shape even without a support : in 
fact, such loaves are frequently 
baked without pans on the floor of 
an ordinary baker's oven. 

This modern method of milling 
also removes the germ, which still 
further decreases the mineral and 
fattv matter in the flour. 



Analysis of Pure Sample of Germ given by 
Church 

In I'jo Parts 

Water 12.5 

Albuminoids, diastase 35.7 

Starch with soace dextrin and maltose 31.2 

Fat or oil 13. i 

Cellulose 18 

Mineral matter 5.7 



12 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

'' More than half this mineral 
matter was phosphoric acid." Oil 
and phosphoric acid are two very 
necessary dietetic constituents, and 
as the wheat itself contains less fat 
than is usually given for a perfect 
diet, discarding the germ is to be 
regretted, especially among people 
who use dry bread, or various 
syrups or sweets in the place of 
butter. The majority of us, how- 
ever, wisely butter our bread. The 
thinner the bread and the thicker 
the butter, sometimes the better, 
especially for those people who are 
inclined to be anaemic, or those who 
wish to add to their fat. The but- 
ter thus spread on bread, which 
necessarily must be masticated, is 
much more diorestible and more 
quickly assimilated than would be 
the same quantity of cream taken 
on soft foods or alone. To sum it 
all up, if we wish to make a very 
white flour, we must do so at the 
expense of several of the most im- 
portant constituents of the wheat. 



IV HE AT 13 

Comparative Analysis by Yeo of Fine and 
Whole Wheat Flour 

Fine Whole 

Flour Wheat 

Water r2 o 14.0 

Proteids 9.3 14.9 

Fat 08 1.6 

Carbo-hydrates (starch, sugar, etc.,) .... 76.5 66.2 

Fibre 0.7 i 6 

Mineral matter 0.9 1.7 

The albuminoids, also called 
proteids and nitrogenous foods, 
consist of albumin, glutin, casein 
and diastase. This latter substance 
being an enzyin (an unorganized 
ferment), which has the power of 
chancrinpf or transforminor starch into 
a suofar. 

The albuminoids are flesh or 
muscle forming foods, building and 
repairing the tissues of the body, 
and assisting in the formation of 
the fluids. Under certain condi- 
tions, however, they may also 
contribute to the muscular and 
nervous energy, and in turn pro- 
duce heat. 

The carbo-hydrates, sugars and 
starches, also called the amyloids, 
with the fats would be non-nitro- 



14 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

genoLis or carbonaceous foods, 
which are capable of yielding- heat 
and force, widiout, however, enter- 
ing into the structure of the tissues. 
In other words, they are not tissue 
builders. All the carbo-hydrates 
are converted into forms of suear, 
before they are assimilable. 

In selecting flour you 
should choose not only 
that which is rich in albu- 
minoids, but see that the glutin is 
of first quality. To test, make a 
ball of dough from a half cup of 
flour and sufficient water to moisten ; 
knead and work well ; form into 
a biscuit ; then quickly twist or 
break it into halves. If strong, it 
will break with a crack ; and this 
is good flour. If soft, poor flour, 
it will sort of stretch apart, and 
break without a sound. If it is 
impossible to make a ball to test 
the flour, take a portion in the hand 
and press it firmly ; if, when you 
open the hand, it falls apart, is 
rather " irrainy " or oranulated, and 



IVHFAT 15 

does not pack, it is good bread, 
biscuit or muffin flour. 

Look next to the color ; 
Color a rich creamy, yellow 

flour should be used for 
bread, rolls and biscuits of all kinds, 
a lighter tint for pastry. Avoid 
flours of a blue white or greyish 
tint ; they are poor and cheap. 

Genuine pastry flour is 

vf/ ^^ a pale yellowish white, 
Floar ^ ^ ^, , ., 

nne and starchy, easily 

retaining the form of the hand upon 
pressure. This may be purchased 
at the ordinary grocery stores under 
the name of ** pastry flour." It is 
sold in cartons or small bags ; rarely 
ever in bulk. In small communities, 
where ''genuine pastry " is unob- 
tainable, a soft winter wheat flour 
may be used in its place; but never a 
bread flour. In making fine pastry, 
cakes and such light mixtures as 
cream puffs, pop overs or German 
puffs, the best results are obtained 
from real pastry flour. 



lO BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

Whole Wheat 



In some milling pro- 



cesses, where Whole 
Wheat Flour is made, 
not only the outer coat of the grain 
is removed, but the germ also, which 
latter is mixed with a certain amount 
of middling or farina and sold as 
breakfast food. Whole wheat flour 
is of a dark brown color, rather 
coarse, and should be free from 
bran ; in other words, the outside 
coat of bran is peeled off, and the 
remaining portion of the grain 
ground into flour. This flour 
contains all the albuminoids and the 
nutritive mineral matter. While 
the bran which is peeled off may 
contain some mineral matter, its 
greater portion is woody fibre or 
cellulose, which is indigestible ; 
consequently it is unfit for food, 
and should not be taken by per- 
sons who have a weak digestion, or 
whose intestines are easily irritated. 
Bread made from whole wheat flour 
might be called a perfect diet for the 
adult ; and is far better for children 



IV HE AT 17 

than white bread. To nursing 
mothers, it Is a necessity, as it sup- 
plies the alkahne phosphates which 
contribute to the formation of the 
required salts In the body. It con- 
tains also the necessary elements 
for the building of the bone and 
teeth structure. Bread made from 
this flour should be used by those 
who are inclined to be anaemic, 
especially children inclined to rick- 
etts, and those whose teeth are 
decaying ; and, as we have said, 
this bread will supply phosphates 
to the milk far better than any 
ordinary white bread. 

Most Graham Flour 
Graham g^j^ j^^ ^^^ markets is 
rlour . r ,. , 

composed oi a little 

white flour and a goodly quantity 
of bran mixed with a certain pro- 
portion of "shorts," ''middlings," 
or fine farina, whichever you choose 
to call them, as they all mean one 
and the same thing. These bran 
particles are Indestructible, and so 
irritate the intestines that all mate- 



1 8 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

rials are hurried throuoh without 
time for digestion or absorption. 
Consequently this bread is not to 
be recommended in any great quan- 
tity to any class of people. 

^ ^, In purchasinor different 

different n - ^ 

rlours HI open market, 

cMmOUnts of J r ^ ^ r 

1 una that one sort ot 
fine flour will require 
four quarts of flour to each quart of 
liquid to make a good dough ; of 
another sort, lightly blended winter 
and spring wheat flour, three quarts 
of flour ; while of a third, containincr 
a large proportion of spring wheat 
well milled and in good condition, 
two quarts only will be required. 
For the above reasons, a pro- 
fessional baker, in giving a recipe 
for bread, always gives the measure 
of liquid, allowing flour to make a 
batter or dough as required ; no cer- 
tain quantity of flour can be stated, 
as in damp years or wet climates, a 
rather damp grain is produced, 
which makes a sticky flour ; and of 
such it will require a greater quan- 



IV HE AT 19 

tity to make a dough of definite 
consistency. A good dry blended 
flour makes a perfect, light loaf, one 
that will keep for many days without 
becoming clammy or moldy. 

Any housewife can, by very little 
practice, learn to determine quickly 
the quality of flour, so that she need 
not be at a loss to select that which 
will eive her bread of a uniform 
quality. 

The liquids used in 
Liquids bread making may be 
water, milk, half milk 
and half water, or whey. It is 
never necessary, with our present 
patent flours, to use potatoes or 
potato water ; in fact, it is rather ob- 
jectionable, and frequently unwhole- 
some. If milk is used, it must be 
scalded, not boiled, and allowed to 
cool to about blood temperature 
(98° Fahr.) before adding the yeast. 
Water may be used lukewarm, or 
it may be boiled and cooled. 

The French use water in pref- 
erence to milk, or milk and water. 



20 BREAD A\D BREAD MAKING 

Salt acts as a guard 
Salt keeper, holding, as it 
were, the acdon of the 
yeast. Bread sponged over night 
is not so liable to " sour" if salt is 
added ; salt is entirely unnecessary, 
however, if the bread is to be made 
quickly in the morning. 

Sugar will increase the 
Sugar rapidity of fermenta- 
tion, but spoils the 
flavor of the bread. 

Albumin, in the form of 
Albumin white of ^.gg, as it is 
usually added in making 
rusk or tea biscuits, especially in 
connection with the shortenino- used, 
retards the action of the yeast, and 
a much lonorer time must therefore 
be allowed for the raisinor of bis- 
cuits, cinnamon bun, and articles of 
this kind, than for ordinary bread 
or biscuits. 



YEAST 21 



YEAST 



In this country we have at pres- 
ent the German compressed yeasts, 
which are sold in almost every city 
and town. They are as a rule well 
made and easily used. Being com- 
pressed, they contain much more 
yeast in a small space than ordi- 
nary home-made yeasts, conse- 
quently, enable the housewife to 
make bread in a third or a quarter 
of the time. Yeast is a plant be- 
longing to the fungi ; it grows by 
budding ; during the process of 
growth, when mixed with mate- 
rials containing albumin and sugar, 
or substances easily converted or 
broken down into sugar, it pro- 
duces " fermentation." The flour 
may be called the soil in which the 
plant feeds and grows ; and if it is 
allowed to remain too long at one 
temperature and in one condition, 
like all other living things it becomes 
exhausted, and the yeast plant is 
killed by its own excretions. We 



2 2 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

then have sour, offensive bread, 
liousewives must be taught to 
take the dough when it is at its 
height, when it has doubled its bulk 
and is very Hght. The dough must 
not stand until it falls ; if it has even 
the slightest semblance of weak- 
ness, it has passed beyond its best 
stage. If at any time when the 
dough is just at its height, the 
housewife has not time to give it 
attention, a handful of flour may be 
added, the dough thoroughly 
beaten ; it may then stand thirty 
to forty minutes longer without 
injury. It is always better to make 
the sponge or dough in the morn- 
ing, as the kitchen is more uniform 
in temperature, and the housewife 
can more readily watch it. The 
sun certainly must have some good 
influence over the bread ; so, from 
a healthful standpoint alone, I should 
say, always make the bread early in 
the morning rather than at night. 

The yeast plant is a very elemen- 
tary structure, is one of the sim- 



YEAST 23 

plest known plants. It is quite 
difficult to decide whether or not 
these simple forms are animal or 
vegetable, as they almost wander 
over the border lines of both. 
One of the great differences is, 
however, that plants are able to 
derive sustenance from inorcranic 
compounds. They can take their 
carbon from carbon dioxide, and 
they can draw their nitrogen from 
ammonia, while animals can in no 
way use carbon or nitrogen for the 
building of their tissues, unless 
these elements are presented to 
them in the form of organic com- 
pounds. In Nature's great school 
of economy, plants live and develop 
on materials excreted by animals. 
Animals, in turn, must subsist either 
on these vegetable substances, 
breaking them down, or on the 
bodies of other animals which have 
been built up from the vegetable 
world. Yeast, then, being able to 
derive its nutriment from inorganic 
bodies, is placed at once in the 



24 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

vegetable kinodom ; and is, like all 
plants, capable of building up com- 
plex compounds from simple ones. 
During the growth of a plant, there 
is a continual a.bsorption of heat. 
Now, yeast, in this particular, pre- 
sents directly the opposite ; for, 
during the entire process of fermen- 
tation, the temperature of the liquid 
rises. For this reason we are taught 
not to place the bread in too warm 
a place, or it will "sour" quickly. 
The name applied to the genus 
of the yeast fimgi is saccharoinyces ; 
so called because they receive their 
greatest nourishment from the sac- 
charine solutions, and convert the 
sugar present into alcohol. Com- 
pressed cakes as we buy them are 
in a resting stage. To give a 
kindergarten simile, I might com- 
pare the ordinary German yeast 
cake, which must be used fresh to be 
good, to the plants taken from the 
yard in the fall and hung in the cellar 
during the winter. They remain in a 
dormant condition, but are capable 



YEAST 25 

of again growing when planted into 
suitable soil. The yeast in the cake 
is quiet, as it were, but is capable 
of growing the moment it is mixed 
with the ordinary sponge. Like all 
plants, it is killed by extreme heat, 
and its growth is retarded by extreme 
cold. It grows best and quickest 
at temperatures between 75° and 
85° (Fahr.). Bread is sweet and 
good when the temperature is even 
from beginning to end. Yeast has 
no effect upon pure glutin flour. I 
doubt, however, if a pure glutin 
flour could be used if it were made. 
There must be a slight percentage 
of starch. I have found by repeated 
experiments that, if the dough is 
thoroughly washed, thereby remov- 
ing all elements except the glutin, 
the yeast plant is incapable of 
producing fermentation ; of course, 
durinor this washincr, all the other 
substances capable of being con- 
verted into suofar have been washed 
out. Such doughs remain quiet 
until putrefaction shows itself 



26 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

^^SALT RISING^' OR EMPTYINGS 

This sponge or leavening is made 
by fermenting flour and water or 
milk without the addition of ordi- 
nary yeast. The true conditions 
of this fermentation are not ex- 
actly known. Judging from the 
odor produced, bacteria play an im- 
portant part in the "fermentation." 
Then, too, the wild yeast plants of 
the air find this an exceedingly good 
resting place, and grow with great 
rapidity. It has been observed by 
one writer that the yeast plants 
found in this dough do not repro- 
duce by budding. Whether or not 
this bread is wholesome, is an open 
question. We know this, that in a 
perfectly clean room (and by this we 
mean a room surgically clean, one 
free as nearly as possible from all 
germ contaminations) it is almost 
impossible to make good ''empty- 
ings." Carry the basin from this 
room to one where the floor is 
covered with carpet, especially if the 



** SALT RISING" OR EMPTYINGS 27 

carpet has not been carefully cleaned 
or shaken recently, and almost im- 
mediately you will have a pitcher full 
of foaming "emptyings." We fully 
realize that many persons have 
eaten bread made after this method 
for years, and are, perhaps, in fairly 
good health. The question is, then, 
what would they have been if, 
instead, they had always used good 
bread ? The effect of heat upon 
bread greatly influences its digesti- 
bility. "Salt rising" bread will 
not bake as easily or quickly as 
that made with yeast. The crust 
is always light, soft and the crumb 
moist ; seeming to hold much more 
w^ater than other breads. 

This sponge, made from the wild 
yeast floating in the air, and un- 
wholesome yeasts used in bread 
making, are the frequent causes of 
indigestion. This bread then should 
be used but sparingly, if at all. 



28 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

BREAD 

After the selection of the flour, 
the yeast and the Hqiiid, there re- 
mains still the manipulation, to make 
a perfect loaf. 

__ First comes the mixinor, 

Mtxinq or . , i- r 

spongmg or kneaamg oi 

nea mg ^^^^ bread. Each litde 

grain of flour must be surrounded 
by a volume of water to hydrate the 
starch, to dissolve the sugar and 
albumin, and to moisten the glutin, 
which causes them to adhere and 
form a dough. We cannot use 
water alone in sufficient quantity to 
effect this ; it must be supplemented 
by kneading, which is really the 
most important part of bread mak- 
ing. In most households, the hands 
are used for this purpose ; but, 
where large quantities of bread are 
to be made, a bread kneader or 
dough machine Is an absolute neces- 
sity. These can be purchased in all 
sizes, from one making six loaves to 
one with capacity for one hundred. 
When the doueh becomes elastic 



BREAD 29 

and loses its stickiness, it has been 
kneaded sufficiently long and is 
ready for its first standing. The 
excellence of the bread depends up- 
on the thoroughness of this knead- 
ing ; it controls the air cells in the 
bread, and its capacity for expansion. 
Bread that is simply stirred and 
poured into a pan, even when light, 
is not visibly larger in bulk than 
when first poured in ; while the ordi- 
nary well kneaded bread is capable 
of expanding from two to three times 
its original bulk. 

__ . ^ Stir in sufficient fiour 

Mechanics of , i 1 i 

„ ^ to make a douorh that 

Kneading , , 

may be turned onto a 

board sprinkled with fiour ; then 

iiour the hands. Draw the doueh 

farthest from you over into the 

centre several times, and then turn 

the whole mass half around. Draw 

it again from the opposite side 

toward the centre ; and press it 

down either with the finders or the 

ball of the hand, then half turn again, 

and repeat this, with a sort of 



30 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

rockiiii^ motion, until the doiieH 
has been thoroughly and evenly 
kneaded. This will take at least 
fifteen minutes. At first, you must 
add flour, just a little at a time ; 
but after the douo-h has lost its 
stickiness, knead it on a dry board. 
When it ceases to stick on pres- 
sure, the kneading may be discon- 
tinued. 

After the dough has had 
Molding its first standing, turn 
out carefully onto the 
board ; cut off sufficient to make 
one loaf. Roll it out under the 
hand until smooth and well shaped 
for the pan in which it is to be baked, 
and into which place it at once. 
Stand it back in the same warm 
place (75°Fahr.) until it has doubled 
its bulk, covering it with a light 
cloth. 

The baking of the bread 
taking, is of the greatest im- 
portance, as the yeast 
plant must, during the process, be 
thoroughly killed ; otherwise, it is 



BREAD 31 

capable of setting up fermentation 
in the stomach, destroying the diges- 
tion of other starchy foods already 
in the stomach. Yeast is destroyed 
at the temperature of 2i2°Fahr. 
While the heat of the oven may be 
300°Fahr., it must be remembered 
that bread contains a laree amount 
of water, and water at sea level bolls 
at 2i2°Fahr. If the oven is too hot 
and the loaves large, the crust sur- 
rounding win prevent the heat from 
penetrating to the centre of the loaf. 
Thus one frequently finds upon 
plunging the thermometer into a hot 
loaf that it will not register over 1 80° 
to 200°Fahr; consequently the yeast 
germs may not be killed ; such bread 
is very unwholesome. Dry yeast, of 
course, is able to stand a much higher 
temperature than yeast suffused 
with water; so that the yeast plant in 
bread is much more easily killed 
than it would be in a dry yeast cake. 
The outside of the loaf, or crust, is 
much more easily digested than the 
inner portion or crumb. During 



32 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

the process of baking, the starch 
has been converted into dextrin, 
which is the first step in the diges- 
tion of starches after the cookine 
or rupturing of the "cells." For 
this reason we give toast, pulled 
bread or zwieback to invalids. 

These may be called pardy digest- 
ed breads. 

There are several ways of test- 
ing the oven without a thermom- 
eter. The old-fashioned baker's 
method was to throw flour on the 
floor of the oven ; if it browned 
quickly, say in three minutes, with- 
out taking fire, the oven was suffi- 
ciently heated. The ordinary cook 
may hold her hand in the oven while 
she slowly counts twenty ; or you 
may use a thermometer and put the 
bread in when it reofisters 280° 
Fahr., or with an indicator, when 
the hand registers 8. Bread in the 
shallow French bread pans must be 
baked in a quick oven (360° Fahr.) 
thirty minutes, and should brown at 
once ; while when baked in square 



DREAD 3Z 

loaves, it should be placed in an oven 
of slower heat (280° Fahr.) and re- 
main there at least ten minutes 
before it browns. When the oven is 
too hot, a large loaf will become 
crusted, and the crust will form a 
non-conductor which will prevent 
the heat from penetrating; hence a 
loaf burned on the outside is fre- 
quently unbaked in the centre. 
When the bread is done, it should 
immediately be removed from the 
pans and tipped up, so that the air 
may circulate freely around each 
loaf. Do not cover the bread, even 
with a light cloth, as in this way the 
moisture is held, destroying the 
crispness of the crust and making 
the crumb rather heavy. Bread 
keeps best when gradually cooled 
and then placed in a clean, light, 
cool closet. Do not ''air'' your 
bread boxes after they have been 
scrubbed and scalded ; dry and 
close them. Dust frequently car- 
ries germs of mold, which grow on 
and contaminate the bread. 



34 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

DISEASES OF BREAD 

In our grandmother's day, when 
floors were not carpeted and walls 
w^ere white-washed, not papered, 
diseases of bread as well as dis- 
eases of fruits and vecretables, were 
by far more rare than they are to- 
day. Our modern civilization ren- 
ders it more necessary to be very 
particular about the care of our 
food. The abnormal conditions are 
very frequently due to the impuri- 
ties which exist in the flour, in the 
bread-pans, on the board, and in 
the coverinors used for the bread. 
Mildew produced by fungus growth 
is one of the common diseases of 
bread, when wrapped in ordinary 
linen or cotton cloths. The cloth 
becomes quickly contaminated, im- 
parting a sour, unpleasant flavor to 
the bread. There can be but little 
doubt that such bread is unwhole- 
some and should not be eaten. 

There are many diseases that are 
due to fungoid growths directly on 



DISEASES OF DREAD 35 

the bread, such as the common 
molds. These may be produced by 
lack of care ; they grow quickly 
on bread that has not been thor- 
oughly baked, or that has been put 
into a box before it was thoroughly 
cooled ; on bread that has been 
allowed to cool in a room where 
sweeping has been done during the 
cooling, or where people have passed 
in and out from barnyards or stables ; 
it may also be produced by resting 
the bread to cool on a table that 
has not been thoroughly cleansed or 
dusted. Moldy bread, even if 
toasted or cooked, will produce dis- 
arrangements of the stomach, and 
consequently should not be used. 
There is another class of breads 
which we call musty ; they are 
scarcely moldy, but they smell sour, 
are unappetizing and will, if eaten, 
produce undesirable effects in the 
stomach. All these conditions are 
favored by dampness and darkness. 
For this reason I have told you to 
keep your bread or your zwieback 



3^ BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

m a light place ; in fact, bread 
should never be kept in the cellar. 
It will mold in a few days, and be 
rendered unfit for food; while, if 
kept in a dry, light place, it will 
keep in good condition from seven 
to eight days. ' 

Whole wheat bread, in summer 
especially, if the wheat grain itself 
has not been in good condition pre- 
vious to the milling, will produce in 
the bread small red patches. The 
centre of the loaf will be sodden 
and gummy, and will develop a sort 
of stringy condition ; it is said by 
one writer that this condition comes 
from a micro-oro^anism which has 
the power of producing a butyric 
acid ; it is brought about without 
doubt by lack of care, both as to yeast 
and bread or as to flour. The germ 
usually exists in the yeast ; and I 
am almost prepared to think that 
home-made yeast, in this genera- 
tion, is absolutely unfit for use, un- 
less made by an expert. Changing 
yeast will frequently stop these 



DISHASES OF BREAD 37 

Stringy conditions. Scrupulous 
cleanliness alone will remove all 
danger. For instance, a bread 
cloth is used to cover over the 
bread this week. It seems per- 
fectly clean, is folded up, put into 
the dresser drawer and broucrht out 
next week. In the meantime it 
has accumulated the micro-orean- 
isms necessary for the production 
of bread diseases. The bread is 
thus contaminated and the eerms 
are not destroyed by the baking, 
as the cloth is used after the baking. 
Bread pans should be scalded pre- 
vious to the making of the sponge. 
The board upon which the dough 
is turned should be thoroughly 
cleaned before using. The baking 
pans are of less account, as they 
come in more direct contact with 
extreme heat. 

There is still another disease 
which is to-day quite puzzling to 
the housewife. This forms in the 
centre of the bread ; the mass be- 
comes brownish, sticky, stringy and 



38 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

has a very peculiar odor. It is 

produced by bacteria, which flourish 

most rapidly in an alkaline medium. 

This bread should not be used as 

food, as it irritates the intestines 

and frequently produces diarrhoea. 

Indigestion may be brought on by 

eating bread having any one of 

these diseases. 

After the bread has 

^ , cooled put it, without 
"Bread . ^ . ' ^ . 

wrappmg, m a pertectly 

clean tin box ; or it may be slipped 

into clean unbleached muslin bao^s 

o 

and hung in a dry closet. These bags 
must be w^ashed and scalded after 
each usinor. Bread is much better 
if it is allowed to dry out and then 
re-moistened, as it were, at serving 
time. The long French loaf may 
become perfectly hard, but if put 
in the oven ten minutes before meal 
time will be crisp, tender and deli- 
cate without being heavy. Do not 
keep bread in stone or wood in a 
damp cellar. 



RECIPES 39 

RECIPES 

Home Made Yeast 

Grate four grood sized potatoes 
into one quart of boiling water. 
Boil five minutes, stirring constantly. 
When cool, add a half cup of sugar, 
two tablespoonfuls of salt and a half 
cup of yeast or one compressed 
yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of 
cool water. Put a saucer over the 
jar, place it in a warm place, 6S" 
Fahr., and stir down the mixture 
each time it comes to the top until 
the fermentation stops. Bottle, 
cork and keep in a cold place. 

Nineteenth Century Bread 

Scald one pint of milk (i8o° 
Fahr.), being careful not to allow it 
to boil ; add one 
pint of water. When 
this mixture is luke- 
warm, add one cake 
Square Pan of compressed yeast 

dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of 
cool water, a level teaspoonful of 




40 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

salt, and suiTicient whole wheat flour 
(about one quart) to make a stiff 
batter. Beat continuously for five 
minutes ; cover and stand in a warm 
place ; in winter, three hours, in 
summer two and a half hours will 



French Pan 

be sufficient. Then stir in slowly 
sufficient flour to make a doueh. 
Turn this out on the baking board ; 
knead continuously until you have 
a soft, elastic loaf. Divide into four; 
mold each portion into a loaf; put 
into greased pans ; cover, and stand 
in a warm place one hour, or until 
it has doubled its bulk, and feels 
very light when you pick it up in the 
hand. Brush the top with water, 
and bake in a moderately quick oven 
three-quarters of an hour. Turn 
from the pans ; rest the loaf so that 
the air will pass around it ; and allow 
it to cool. Keep in a clean tin box. 
If home made yeast Is used add a 



RECIPES 41 

half cupful, make the same, but allow 
the sponge to stand over night. 

White Bread 

Scald a pint of milk as before ; add 
one pint of water, a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and one compressed yeast 
cake dissolved ; then add a quart of 
flour. Beat for five minutes ; then 
continue adding flour until you have 
a dough sufficiently thick for knead- 
ing. Knead thoroughly until it is 
soft and elastic. The grain will be 
finer and the dough whiter if you 
pound it for at least five minutes 
with a good strong potato masher ; 




or you may lift it in your hand and 
throw it on the board. Put it into 
a bowl or pan ; cover it and stand 
It in a warm place, 75° Fahr., for 
three hours. Divide into four loaves, 
and put each Into a greased pan. 
Cover and stand aside for one hour ; 




42 BREAD AMD BREAD MAKING 

if in a square pan, bake in a mod- 
erately quick oven three-quarters 
of an hour ; if in along French pan, 
in a quick oven thirty minutes. 

Bread Sticks 

Bread sticks may be made either 
from the nineteenth century or 
white bread dough. Roll a portion 

of the do u oil 
out in the 
hands, making 
it the size of 
a lead pencil. Cut it the length of 
the bread stick pan, and put each 
one in its own compartment. Let 
them stand thirty minutes ; brush 
with water, and bake in a quick 
oven fifteen minutes. 

Old Maids 

When your plain bread dough is 
light and ready for molding, pull off 
quite large bits and shape them 
into round biscuits at least six 
inches in diameter and about a half 
inch thick. Flour your bread 



RECIPES 43 

cloth ; put them down ; cover, and 
let them stand until very light, 
about one hour ; then bake them 
slowly on the griddle. They may 
be turned two or three times while 
baking. 

Another way of baking old maids 
is to make them into smaller bis- 
cuits, and place them to rest in 
large crumpet or muffin rings. 
They may then be baked in the 
rings. When eating, pull them 
apart ; do not cut them. 

Graham Bread 

To make one loaf of araham 
bread, take one pint of white 
sponge; stir insuf- 
ficien t crraham 
Hour to make a 
batter that is diffi- 
cult to stir but not 
sufficiently stiff to knead ; add a 
tablespoonful of molasses. Pour into 
a greased square pan ; let it stand 
one hour, and bake in a moderate 
oven three-quarters of an hour. 





44 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

Corn Heal Loaf Bread 

Put a pint of milk or water over 
the fire to boil. When boIHna-, stir 
in two-thirds of a measuring cup- 
ful of granulated corn meal ; cook 
just as you would mush. Take it 
from the fire, and add one pint of 
scalded milk ; add a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt. When it is lukewarm, 
add one small com- 
pressed yeast cake 
dissolved in four 
tablespoonfuls of 
cool water ; add a pint of white 
flour ; beat thoroughly ; cover, and 
stand in a warm place three hours. 
Now add sufficient white bread 
flour to make a dough. Take it out 
on the board, and knead it thor- 
oughly and carefully until it loses 
its stickiness, and becomes elastic. 
Make it at once into two loaves ; 
place each in a greased square 
bread pan ; cover and stand in a 
warm place one and a half hours, 
or until very light. Brush with 
water, and bake in a moderately 



RECIPES 45 

quick oven three-quarters of an 
hour. 

Oat Meal Bread 

Oat meal bread is made in pre- 
cisely the same manner as corn 
meal bread, substituting a cup of 
rolled oats for the quantity of corn 
meal. 

Golden Loaf of South Carolina 

Boil three good sized white 
potatoes until tender ; drain, dry 
and press them through a colander 
or vegetable press. This should 
measure a half pint. Scald one 
pint of milk ; add to it two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and pour grad- 
ually into the potato. If you now can 
press this through a fine sieve, so 
much the better for the loaf Add 
a tablespoonful of sugar, and when 
the mixture is lukew^arm add six 
well beaten eggs and one com- 
pressed yeast cake dissolved in four 
tablespoonfuls of water. Now add 
sufficient flour to make a batter ; 
beat continuously for five minutes ; 



46 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

then add more flour until you have 
a soft dough, which take out on the 
board and work carefully until it is 
light and elastic. Put into a bowl ; 
cover and stand in a warm place 
until it has doubled its bulk, about 
three and a half hours. Then divide 
it into halves ; mold each half 
very lightly ; put into greased pans ; 
cover, and when lieht ao^ain (in 
about one hour) bake in a moder- 
ate oven for three-quarters of an 

hour. 

Rye Bread 

Scald a half pint of milk (i 80° 
Fahr.) and add a half pint of water ; 
when lukewarm, add half a cake 
of compressed yeast, dissolved in 
two tablespoonfuls of cool water; add 
a half teaspoonful of salt, and then 
stir in sufficient rye flour to make a 
batter. Beat thoroughly ; cover 
and stand aside for three hours. 
Then add sufficient rye flour to 
make a doucrh stiff enough to knead. 
Knead thoroughly ; pound it, if 
you can, for five minutes. Shape 



RECIPES 47 

it at once into loaves ; put into 
greased pans. Stand aside for one 
hour, or an hour and a half, until 
very light ; brush with water ; and 
bake in a moderately quick oven 
for one hour. Handle much the 
same as whole wheat. 

Swedish Bread 

Scald one pint of Indian meal 
with one pint of boiling water. 
Cover and cool slowly. Add a 
quart of warm water, a saltspoon 
of salt, one cake of compressed 
yeast ; dissolved in a quarter cup 
of warm water. Now stir in rye 
meal until you have a dough. 
Knead well, usine araham flour on 
the board. Break off a bit, about 
a pint ; roll it out into a thin sheet, 
the size of a dinner plate. Place 
it on a cloth cover for one hour and 
bake in a moderately quick oveMi 
(300° Fahr.) for forty minutes. 



/ 



48 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

SMALL BREADS 
Vienna Rolls 

Scald one pint of milk (i8o^ 
Fahr.) ; take it from the fire, and 
add two ounces (two rounding table- 
spoonfuls) of butter. When luke- 
warm, add one yeast cake dissolved 

in four table- 
spoonfuls of 
cool water, 
a half tea- 
spoonful of 
salt and sufficient flour to make as 
soft a dough as you can conven- 
iently knead. Knead for ten min- 
utes. This, like the bread, will be 
finer if pounded a portion of the 
time. Put the douirh back into the 
bowl, and when it has doubled its 
bulk (about three and a half hours) 
turn it carefully on the board. Pinch 
off a little piece ; make it into a 
round biscuit ; stand it in a greased 
pan, and so continue until the pan is 
filled. Allow plenty of room for 
swelling so the rolls may not touch 



SMALL BREADS 49 

each other. Cover and stand aside 

one and a half hours. They should 

now be very light. With a sharp 

knife, cut each biscuit across the 

top both ways ; brush them with 

white of ecre and water beaten to- 

gether ; run into a quick oven, and 

bake twenty minutes. If you wish 

them highly glazed, when they are 

done, brush them again with water 

and white of ^gg, and run them 

back for a few minutes into the 

oven. 

Pocket Book Rolls 

Rub two tablespoonfuls (two 
ounces) of butter into one quart 
and a pint of good bread flour. 
Make a well in the centre. Have 
a pint of milk scalded and luke- 
warm ; add to it one small yeast 
cake dissolved in four tablespoonfuls 
of cool water ; add a half teaspoon- 
ful of salt ; mix this together, and 
pour it into the well in the centre of 
the flour. Do not stir ; toss a little 
flour all over the top from the sides 
of the bowl ; cover, and stand 



50 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

aside for three hours ; then stir In 
all the flour ; kne"ad and work the 
dough for fifteen minutes until it 
becomes soft and elastic. Then 
pound with a potato masher for 
five minutes ; roll out in a sheet 
half an inch thick ; cut with a 
round cutter. With the handle 
of a knife press down through 
the centre of each little round 
making a depression. Brush one 
side lightly with butter ; fold the 
other over, pocket book fashion ; 
place them in a greased pan 
far enough apart not to touch. 
Cover ; stand in a warm place 
for one hour, or until very light. 
Brush the tops with milk, and 
bake in a quick oven fifteen min- 
utes. 

French Potato Rolls 

Pare two good sized potatoes ; 
cover them with boiling water ; 
boil five minutes. Drain off this 
water, and throw it away. Now 
cover with one pint of boiling 
water ; boil until the potatoes are 



SMALL BREADS 5 1 

soft and mealy. Drain, saving the 
water. Mash the potatoes and 
add to them one pint of scalded 
milk ; beat until smooth. Now add 
the water in which they were 
boiled. Add a level teaspoonful of 
salt, and, when the mixture is luke- 
warm, one cake of compressed 
yeast dissolved in four tablespoon- 
fuls of water ; add a pint and a 
half of good bread flour ; beat 
thoroughly ; cover and stand in a 
warm place for two hours. Now 
add sufficient flour to make a soft 
dough ; knead as lightly as possi- 
ble until the mixture loses its sticki- 
ness. Put this back into a bowl ; 
and, when it has doubled its bulk 
(one and a half to two hours), 
pinch off by tablespoonfuls ; make 
into tiny little rolls. Put into a 
greased French roll pan ; cover, 
and when very light, run into a 
quick oven for fifteen minutes. The 
dough must be as soft as possible 
without being sticky. 



52 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

French Rolls 

Scald one and a half pints of 
milk ; when it is lukewarm, add 
one yeast cake dissolved in two 
tablespoonfuls of warm water ; 
stir in sufficient flour to make a 
crood batter ; beat thoroughly ; 
cover and stand in a warm 
place until very light (about two 
hours) ; now add another half pint 
of milk that has been scalded and 
is lukewarm and a teaspoonful of 
salt. Rub two tablespoonfuls of 
butter into a pint of flour, and stir 
this in ; then go on adding flour 
until you have a dough stiff enough 
to knead. Knead and pound for at 
least fifteen minutes. Put it back in- 
to the bowl ; cover, and when it has 
doubled its bulk (about two and a 
half to three hours) roll it out care- 
fully into long narrow strips. Have 
each roll as thick as your two 
fingers and four inches long. Place 
them in a pan so that they will not 
touch each other. Cover the pan, 
and when they are very light, bake 



SMALL BREADS 53 

them in a quick oven about fifteen 

minutes. Pans can be purchased 

that are just the size and shape of 

the rolls. 

Crumpets 

Scald one pint of milk ; add three 
tablespoonfuls of butter ; when 
lukewarm, add one cake of com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in four 
tablespoonfuls of water ; add a 
half teaspoonful of salt. Now add 
sufficient flour to make a batter that 
will drop from a spoon (about two 
and a half cups). Beat thoroughly, 
cover and stand aside for two 
hours. Heat the griddle slightly ; 
grease crumpet rings, and place 
them on top. Put two tablespoon- 
fuls of batter in each ring ; bake 
slowly on one side then turn them 
rings and all ; as soon as they are 
sufficiently baked remove the rings ; 
push the crumpets on one side of 
the griddle so that you may again fill 
the other side. Bake slowly for ten 
minutes ; and they are ready to 
serve. Pull apart ; do not cut. 



54 /^Ri:.-^n ./w* AV\V-.//^ .\r-//v7.vc; 

English Muffins 

English muffins are niaae after 
this same recipe. The rin^s used 
are smaller, and they are filled at 
least half full with batter, and are 
not turned durino- the bakiiiL;', but 
are [)laced in a bakin^' pan, and 
cooked in the oven. 

German Horns 

Scald one pint oi milk ; add to it 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, a 
tablespoonful ofsuoarand when the 
milk is lukewarm add one com- 
pressed yeast cake dissolved In four 
tablespoonfuls of cold water. Now 
stir in sufficient tlour (a little over a 
pint) to make a dou;^h that you can 
take out on the board and knead 
until it loses its stickiness, adding 
llour, of course, as you need. This 
douoh must be fine grained and 
light, and will require at least fifteen 
minutes continuous kneading". Put 
it back into the bowl ; cover, and 
stand in a warm place for three 



SM/1LL HRI-ADS 55 

hours. TLirn the doiii^h out lii^litly 
imU) a b(jard ; roll it out in a sheet a 
lialf inch thick ; cut it into crescent 
shajjed Ijiscuits ; place them in 
greased shallow baking pans where 
they cannot possibly touch each 
other ; cov^jr and stand in a warm 
j>lace for thirty minutes. They must 
be very light. Run them into a quick 
oven. While they are baking, beat 
together a tablespoonful of sugar, 
one of white of Gg(s and one of milk. 
Have r(,^ady chojjped fine at least 
three dozen blanched almonds. 
When the rolls have been in the 
oven ten minutes, take them out ; 
brush each one quickly with tlie ^gg 
mixture, and dust them thickly with 
the chopped almonds. The almonds 
must be sprinkled o\er the moment 
the roll is brushed, as the heat of 
the roll will quickly dry the glazing 
and then the almonds wnW not stick. 
Now put them back into the oven 
for ^WQ minutes, and the rolls will 
be golden brown. These ar(i the 
nicest of all rolls to serve without 



56 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

butter with salad or cold meats for 
eveninor collations. 

Nuns' Puffs 

Scald a half pint of milk ; add one 
rounding tablespoonful of butter ; 
when lukewarm, add two eggs well 
beaten, and one cake of compressed 
yeast, dissolved in four tablespoon- 
fuls of lukewarm water. Now stir 
in gradually sufficient flour (about 
one and a half cups) to make a stiff 
batter, or rather a soft dough, one 
that can be worked up with a spoon, 
not with the hands. Dip out or cut 
off spoonfuls of this ; drop into 
greased gem pans ; cover and st ind 
in a warm place for one hour. Bake 
in a quick oven thirty minutes. 
They must be very light before 
going into the oven. 

Unleavened Bread 

Unleavened bread Is bread made 
without fermentation ; in other 
words, no means is taken, save the 
ordinary kneading and beating 
to aerate the dous^h. Mix the 



SMALL BREADS 57 

flour with sufficient water to make 
a dough that is rather stiff; then 
knead or work it to the proper 
consistency. In many places, especi- 
ally in the South where Maryland 
biscuits are used once or twice a 
day, a machine called a "brake," 
composed of two rolls, is used for 
this purpose. It flattens the dough 
into a long strip ; then it is folded 
over, rolled out aeain, and folded 
again. This may now be made into 
biscuits, and baked in a moderate 
oven, and you would then have 
Maryland biscuits ; or it may be 
rolled out into very thin sheets, cut 
into square crackers, pricked with 
a fork, baked in a moderate oven, 
producing what are called Virginia 
biscuits or water crackers ; or, if 
worked with a sort of spiked ma- 
chine, cutting as well as kneading 
the dough, then made into round, 
very thin cakes and quickly baked, 
you would have an ordinary matza 
or Passover bread. The southern 
breads are usually shortened. 



58 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

Whole wheat Hour may be made 
into whole wheat crackers by fol- 
lowine this same method. The 
dough should be rolled very thin 
and cut into small square crackers, 
and baked in a moderate oven. If 
the dough is baked in a quick oven 
it will puff up, be much lighter, but 
will not keep so long. 

Egg Crackers 

Sift one quart of flour. Beat the 
yolks of three eggs, and add to them 
about three-quarters of a pint of 
thick sweet cream ; knead and beat 
until smooth. Roll out into a very 
thin sheet ; cut into round crackers ; 
prick, and bake in a quick oven. 
Serve warm. 

Salt Rising Bread 

Stir two tablespoonfuls of corn 
meal into a half pint of water that 
has been scalded and slightly cooled 
(to about 130° Fahr.); add half a 
teaspoonful of salt ; mix thoroughly. 
This should be made in a pitcher. 



SMALL BREADS 59 

Cover the pitcher with a saucer, 
stand in a bowl, surround it with 
warm water at the temperature of 
160° Fahr. Keep this in a warm 
place either over night or for five 
or six hours. If you make it early 
in the morning, say six o'clock, it 
will be ready to use by eleven. 
Then scald one quart of milk ; stand 
it aside until lukewarm ; add a tea- 
spoonful of salt and sufficient flour 
to make a batter that will drop from 
the spoon. Beat thoroughly ; turn 
in the salt rising; beat continuously 
for three minutes ; then cover, and 
stand in a pan of warm water about 
two hours ; then add sufficient flour 
to make a dough ; knead thorough- 
ly, and continuously until smooth 
and elastic. Divide into four loaves ; 
mold, and place each in a square 
greased pan ; cover again with a 
towel ; stand in a very warm place, 
and when light, bake in an oven at 
300° Fahr., for one hour. 

This must be kept very much 
warmer than yeast bread. 



6o BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

THE SECOND COOKING OF 
BREAD 

Zwieback 

Zwieback may be made from 
plain bread, or bread that has been 
slightly sweetened. The bread 
must be made in small loaves, and 
thoroughly baked. When one day 
old, cut It into slices a half inch 
thick ; place these slices in large 
baking pans that have been lined 
with soft brown paper ; put them 
into a mild oven until thoroughly 
dry ; then increase the heat until 
they are a golden brown to the very 
centre. To keep them, put into 
perfectly clean bags, and hang in a 
dry, light closet. 

Toast 

Dry toast may be made in pre- 
cisely the same way as zwieback, 
but must be served warm. Do not 
butter the toast however w^hile it is 
hot ; wait until it has slightly cooled ; 



THE SECOND COOKING OF BREAD 6i 

Otherwise, the oily butter will render 
the bread less dio^estible. 

Water Toast 

Slightly dry the bread in the 
oven ; then toast it quickly over a 
clear lire ; dip each piece quickly 
in boiling water ; dish on a heated 
plate ; spread lightly with butter, 
and send to the table. 

Milk Toast 

This may be made from slices of 
bread, or may be made from or- 
dinary pulled bread, manipulating 
it the same as for water toast, cov- 
ering it, however, with milk that 
has been heated (not to boiling 
point) and very slightly salted. 

Cream Toast 

Cut the bread into slices a half 
inch thick ; dry them, and then 
quickly brown. Put them into a 
heated dish. Have ready to each 
two slices from a square loaf, a 
half pint of milk in a double boiler ; 



^ 



62 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

add a teaspoonful of corn starch 
moistened in a little cold milk ; add 
this to the hot milk, and cook until 
smooth ; take this from the fire ; 
allow it to cool a little ; add a table- 
spoonful of butter, and pour quickly 
over the bread. Serve at once. 

Pulled Bread 

Whittle the outside crust from a 
long loaf of well baked bread ; then 
with two forks pull the bread apart 
'^ _ down the cen- 

r ^ tre of the loaf. 

,^" Divide these 
.^ — „. - halves again 

into quarters ; then cut into eighths. 
Place these ragged strips in a bak- 
ing pan that has been lined widi 
brown paper ; then in the oven ; 
allow them to dry to the very centre. 
Then close the door, and make them 
a golden brown. Each piece must 
be crisp to the very centre, or it 
is not sufficiently done. 




SIVEET BREAD CAKES 63 

SWEET BREAD CAKES 

Coffee Cakes 

Dissolve one small compressed 
yeast cake in four tablespoonfuls of 
warm water ; then stir in sufficient 
flour to make a biscuit ; knead this 
biscuit into a little loaf; with a 
sharp knife, cut it across and almost 
through, both ways. Drop this, 
with the cut side up, into a good 
sized pitcher of warm water. The 
biscuit will go direcdy to the bot- 
tom ; but, in a few moments, the 
yeast plant will begin to grow, 
making the dough lighter, and it 
will come to the surface, at which 
time it is ready to use. This will 
take thirty minutes. Put one pound 
of pastry flour into a bowl ; make a 
well in the centre ; into this well put 
four ounces of butter, a tablespoon- 
ful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
milk, five eggs beaten without sep- 
arating until very light. Lift the 
biscuit on a skimmer or in your 
hand and drop it into this mass. 



64 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

Now, with your two lingers and 
thumb, work the whole until per- 
fectly smooth, taking in gradually 
the flour. This will make a soft, 
delicate dough ; manipulate it thor- 
oughly in the bowl ; it should not 
be sufficiently dry to knead on a 
board. Cover it, and stand in a 
warm place over night. Turn it 
out onto the board next morninor • 
cut off about two tablespoonfuls 
and roll this out under your hand 
into a long roll about as thick 
as your finger and a half yard 
long. Make it a little thinner in 
the centre ; fold the two ends to- 
gether, and roll under your hand 
until it is thoroughly twisted and has 
a rope-like or twisted appearance. 
Put the two ends together ; place 
them in a pan where they will not 
touch each other ; cover and stand 
in a warm place until very light. 
Bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. 
The dough may be made into rolls 
the same as bread sticks, and baked 
in bread stick pans ; or it may be 



SU/EET BREAD CAKES 65 

made into a shorter roll, folded in 
the centre ; then twisted like a rope, 
and put into a bread stick pan. 
When they are baked, pour over a 
small quantity of melted sugar or 
fondant. The melted sugar is made 
by adding a tablespoonful of hot 
water to a half pound of powdered 
sugar ; stand this over the fire 
until it becomes moist and suffi- 
ciently liquid to pour. These cakes 
are exceedingly good dipped in 
chocolate icing. 

German Cinnamon Bun 

Scald a half pint of milk ; while 
hot, add two ounces of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. When luke- 
warm, add half of a compressed 
yeast cake dissolved in two table- 
spoonfuls of warm water, and three 
eggs well beaten without separat- 
ing. Now add sufficient flour (about 
two cups) to make a good dough ; 
the dough must be elastic but soft. 
Knead and manipulate it, either 
with your hand or a spoon, keeping 



66 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

it III the bowl.. Cover, and stand 
in a warm place until it has doubled 
its bulk (about four hours). Turn 
this out lightly onto a board ; roll 
it Into a sheet ; spread the sheet 
with butter ; then cover It thor- 
oughly with sugar. For this quan- 
tity at least one cup must be used. 
Then dust it lightly w^ith cinnamon, 
and sprinkle over a few clean, dry 
currants. Roll up into a long roll ; 
cut into biscuits one and a half 
inches long, and place endwise in 
small round pans that have been 
thoroughly greased. Cover these, 
and stand in a w^arm place for at 
least one and a half hours ; then 
bake In a moderate oven for one 
hour. The quantity given may be 
baked in three small round tin pans, 
and will turn out as one cake ; pull 
these apart with a fork. 

Common Dutch Cake 

Rub two tablespoonfuls of butter 
Into one pound of pastry flour ; mix 
a- teaspoonful of allspice and a 



SIVEET BREAD CAKES 67 

quarter of a pound of granulated 
sugar, and, if you like, a teaspoon- 
ful of caraway seed ; add them to 
the flour and butter, and mix thor- 
oughly. Scald a half pint of milk. 
When lukewarm, add half of a 
compressed yeast cake dissolved in 
four tablespoonfuls of cool water. 
Turn this into the flour ; mix, add- 
ing a half pound of cleaned currants. 
Knead thoroughly, having the 
dough soft but elastic. Grease 
thoroughly a turk's head or a round 
cake mold, line with buttered or 
oiled paper, allowing it to come up 
a little above the top of the pan. 
Put in the dough ; stand it in a 
warm place ; cover, and when it 
has doubled its bulk (about two 
hours) bake in a moderate oven one 
hour. 



68 BRBAD AND BREAD MAKING 

QUICK BREADS WITH BAKING 
POWDER 

Baking Powder Loaf 

Add three rounding teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder to two quarts of 
flour, either white or whole wheat. 
Sift three times ; add a level tea- 
spoonful of salt ; mix thoroughly. 
If while bread, add sufficient water 
to just moisten ; knead quickly Into 
two loaves ; put into greased pans ; 
brush the top with milk, and bake 
in a moderate oven one hour. If 
you use whole wheat flour, dissolve 
a tablespoonful of molasses in the 
water before you begin to mix ; 
and finish as for white bread. 

« 
Milk Biscuit 

Rub one rounding tablespoonful 
(one ounce) of butter into one quart 
of bread flour ; add two rounding 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a 
level teaspoonfid of salt, and mix 
thoroughly. Now see that your 



QUICK BREADS 69 

oven is very hot. Grease a shallow 
pan ; get your rolling pin and cutter 
and your small pastry brush ; add 
slowly sufficient milk to make a 
dough that is moist but not wet, 
about a cup and a quarter. Turn 
the doueh onto a floured board ; 
^-^^.^ knead very 

quickly; roll 
out into a 
sheet a half 



inch thick ; cut into small biscuits ; 
stand them in a pan where they will 
not" touch each other; brush the 
tops with milk and bake in a quick 
oven twenty minutes. These bis- 
cuits should expand three times 
their original bulk, be brown top 
and bottom, and thoroughly baked 
at the sides, but of licrht color. 

Whole Wheat Milk Biscuits 

These may be made after the 
same recipe. 

Rye Milk Biscuits 

These, also, may be made after 
the same general plan, using more 



^o BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

or less moisture, according to the 
quality and kind of the flour. 

Whole Wheat Gems 

Grease iron gem pans, and put 
them into a very hot oven. Put 
one pint of ice water into a bowl, 
and stir in hastily, beating rapidly, 
a half pint of whole wheat flour. 
Pour this into the hot gem pans, 
and bake in a quick oven fifteen to 
twenty minutes. 

Breakfast Muffins 

Separate two eggs ; beat the 
yolks for a moment ; add a half pint 
of milk, then one and a half cups 
of white bread flour and beat thor- 
oughly ; add a tablespoonful of 
melted butter, a half teaspoonful of 
salt, a rounding teaspoonful of bak- 
ing powder. Beat for about two min- 
utes. Stir in carefully the well 
beaten whites of the eo-ors. Pour 
this mixture into twelve greased 
gem pans, and bake in a moderately 
quick oven twenty minutes. 



QUICK BREADS 1i 

Corn Muffins 

Corn muffins are made exaclly 
the same as plain breakfast muffins, 
using one cup of corn meal and a 
half cup of flour. 

Rice Muffins 

To make rice muffins, add to the 
breakfast muffin mixture, just before 
addincr the baking powder, one cup 
of cold boiled rice ; beat thoroughly. 

Oat Heal Gems 

To make oat meal o-ems, add a 
cup of left over oat meal porridge 
in the place of the rice. 

Fruit Gems 

Separate two eggs ; add to the 
yolks a half pint of milk ; mix, and 
add a half cup of chopped dates, or 
figs, or raisins. Now add one cup 
of whole wheat flour, a half cup of 
white flour ; or you may add a half 
cup of graham flour, or use a cup 
and a half of whole wheat flour ; 
beat thoroughly ; add one rounding 



72 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

tcaspoonful of baking powder, and 
then fold in the well beaten whites 
of the eo-g-s. Bake in twelve greased 
gem pans in a moderately quick 
oven twenty minutes. Rye meal 
may be used in the place of whole 
wheat flour, or you may use it 
half and half. 

Plain Corn Bread 

Separate two eggs ; add to the 
yolks a tablespoonful of butter 
melted and a half pint of milk ; 
then one cup of white corn meal, 
and a half cup of white bread 
flour ; beat thoroughly ; add a 
rounding teaspoonful of baking 
powder, and fold in the well 
beaten whites of two eggs. Pour 
into a greased shallow pan, and 
bake in a moderately quick oven 
thirty minutes. Cut into squares, 
and serve hot. 

Buttermilk Bread 

Put one pint of yellow corn meal 
into a bowl ; pour in a half pint of 



QUICK BREADS 73 

boiling water ; this must just mois- 
ten, not wet, the meal ; add two 
roundinor tablespoonfuls of shorten- 
ing. Dissolve an even teaspoonful 
of soda in two tablespoonfuls of 
warm water, and add it to a cup 
and a half of thick sour milk or 
buttermilk ; stir this into the corn 
meal, and pour at once into a 
shallow pan. Bake in a quick oven 
a half hour. 

Sally Lunn 

Scald one pint of milk ; add to it 
two tablespoonfuls of butter ; when 
lukewarm, add one compressed 
yeast cake dissolved in four 
tablespoonfuls of cold water. Stir 
in, beating all the while, three 
half pint cupfuls of flour. Cover, 
and stand aside for three hours ; 
separate and beat four eggs, add 
the yolks, then the whites, and stand 
again for one hour ; then pour care- 
fully into greased layer cake pans, 
and bake in a moderately quick 
oven fifteen to twenty minutes. 



74 BREAD AND DREAD MAKING 

The quantity given should make 
six layers. In pouring it out be 
careful not to break the air bubbles 
in the dough, pour it as gently as 
possible. If these cakes are wanted 
for breakfast they may be mixed at 
night, using one-half the quantity 
of the yeast ; then, the first thing in 
the morning, add the eggs. They 
may stand for an hour and then be 
baked. If needed for lunch, they 
may be made in the morning. 
When done, take from the pan, 
butter lightly one layer ; place an- 
other layer on top, butter lightly ; 
and another layer. To serve, cut 
down as you would layer cake or 
pie, or pour the mixture into a 
Turk's head and bake in a more 
moderate oven for three-quarters 
of an hour. Cut as you would 
sponge cake, using a heated sharp 
steel knife. Baked in gem pans 
this makes the very lightest sort of 
luncheon muffins. In small pans, 
of course, a more thorough baking 
is insured. 



STEAMED BREADS ^5 

STEAMED BREADS 

Oat Heal Brown Bread 

Mix one pint of Pettijohn's 
Breakfast Food, one pint of Quaker 
Oats, a half pint of granulated 
yellow corn meal and a half pint of 
whole wheat ; add a teaspoonful of 
salt. Dissolve a tea- 
spoonful of baking- soda 
in two tablespoonfuls of 
warm water, add it to a 
half pint of New Orleans 
molasses, stir and add it to a pint 
of thick sour milk ; mix with the 
dry ingredients ; turn into a brown 
bread mold, and boil or steam con- 
tinuously for four hours. Very 
good. 

Boston Brown Bread 

Mix a half pint of Yankee rye 
with a half pint of granulated corn 
meal and the same quantity of 
whole wheat flour. Measure a 
level teaspoonful of bicarbonate of 
soda, dissolve it in a tablespoonful 




76 b:iead and bread making 

of warm water ; add it to a cup 
of New Orleans molasses ; mix, 
and add to one pint of thick sour 
milk or buttermilk. Add a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; pour this into the 
dry ingredients ; mix thoroughly ; 
turn into a greased brown bread 
mold ; tie down the cover. Place 
in a steamer, or in a kettle and 
partly surround the mold with boil- 
ing water, and boil continuously 
for four hours. If you are without 
a mold, a five pound baking pow- 
der tin may be used, or an ordi- 
nary long ten cent milk kettle ; or 
you may use an ordinary round 
pudding mold, one having a funnel 
or standard in the centre. 



QUICK BREADS IVITH EGGS 77 

QUICK BREADS WITH EGGS 
Mush Bread 

Put one pint of milk in a double 
boiler ; stir in slowly a half pint 
of corn meal ; cook until you have 
a smooth mush (about five minutes); 
take from the fire ; add the yolks 
of four eggs slightly beaten ; then 
fold in carefully the well beaten 
whites. Turn this into a baking 
dish, and bake in a moderately 
quick oven twenty to twenty-five 
minutes. Serve at once. This must 
be served in the dish in which it is 
baked, and be helped with a spoon. 

Dodgers 

Put into a bowl one pint of south- 
ern corn meal, and into the centre 
of this a rounding tablespoonful of 
shortening; pour over sufficient boil- 
ing water to just moisten ; it must 
not be very wet. Cover, and let 
it stand until cool. Beat one egg 
without separating until light ; add 
four tablespoonfuls of milk. Stir 



78 BREAD AMD BREAD MAKING 

this Into the meal. The meal must 
now be sufficiently thick to drop 
from a spoon, not pour. Drop it 
by spoonfuls, into a greased pan. 
Bake in a moderately quick oven 
a half hour. It must be sufficiently 
thick to retain the shape of the 
spoon, as it is dropped into the pan. 

German Puffs 

Beat four eggs without separat- 
ing until well mixed, add a half 
pint of milk and pour gradually 
into a half pint of pastry flour ; mix 
well and strain throucrh a sieve 

back into the 
first bowl. 
Have iron 
g e m pans 
well heated, fill half full with this 
thin batter and bake in a moder- 
ately quick oven, for forty minutes. 
Pop Overs are made in precisely 
the same way, using two Instead of 
four eggs. These may be used as 
breakfast muffins, or served with a 
sauce as dessert. 




INDEX 



79 



INDEX 



Albumin 

Baking 

Baking Powder T.oaf . 

Biscuit ... 

Milk 
Biscuits, Rye Milk . 

Whole Wheat Milk 
Boston Brown Bread 
Bread 

Baking 

Boston Brown 

Buttermilk 

Corn . 

Cornmeal Loaf 

Diseases of . 

Graham . 

Mechanics of Kneading 

Mixing or Kneading 

Molding 

Mubh 

Nineteenth Century 

Oatmeal . 

Oatmeal Brown . 

Pulled . 

Rye . 

Second Cooking of 

Sticks 

Swedish . 

Sweet Bread 

To Keep 

Unleavened 

White . 
Breads, small 

Steamed 
Breakfast Muffins 
Bun. Cinnamon, German 



PAGE 

20 

30 
68 
68 
68 
69 
69 

75 
28 

30 

75 
72 
72 

44 
34 
43 
29 
28 
30 
77 
39 
45 
75 
62 
46 
60 
42 
47 
63 
39 
56 
41 
48 

75 
70 

65 



8o 



INDEX 



Buttermilk Bread 
Cake, Dutch, common 
Cakes, Coffee 

Sweet Bread . 
Care of tbe Wheat Grain 
Cinnamon Bun, German 
Coffee Cakes 
Color of Flour . 
Common Dutch Cake 
Corn Bread, plain 
Corn-meal Loaf Bread 
Corn Muffins . 
Crackers, Egg 
Cream Toast . 
Crumpets 

Different Amounts of Liquid 
Diseases of Bread 
Dodgers 

Dutch Cake, common 
Egg Crackers 
Emptyings 
English Muffins 
Flour, color of 

Graham . 

Selecting . 

Pastry . 

Wheat, analysis . 

Whole Wheat 
French Potato Rolls 
French Rolls 
Fruit Gems 
Gems, Fruit 

Oatmeal . 

Whole Wheat 
German Cinnamon Bun 
German Horns 
German Puffs 
Golden Loaf of South Carolina 
Graham Bread 



INDEX 



8i 



Graham Flour 
Home-made Yeast 
Horns, German 
Kneading 

Mechanics of 
Liquids 

Liquids, different amounts of 
Loaf, Baking Powder 
Mechanics of Kneading 
Milk Biscuit 
Milk Toast 

Milling .... 

Mixing or Kneading 
Molding .... 
Muffins, Breakfast 
Corn 
English 
Rice 
Mush Buead . 
Nineteenth Century Bread 
Nuns' Puffs . 
Oatmeal Bread 
Oatmeal Brown Bread 
Oatmeal Gems 
Old Maids 
Pastry Flour 
Plain Corn Bread 
Pocket Book Rolls 
Puffs, German 

Nuns' 
Pulled Bread ' 
Quick Breads, with baking powd 
Quick Breads, with eggs . 
Recipes .... 
Rice Muffins . 
Rolls, French 

French Potato . 
Pocket Book 
Vienna 



PAGB 

39 
54 

28 
29 

19 
18 
68 

29 
68 
61 
10 

28 

30 
70 

71 

54 
71 

77 
39 
55 
45 
75 
71 
42 

15 

72 

49 
78 
56 
62 
68 
77 
39 
71 
52 
50 
49 
48 



82 



INDEX 



Rye Bread 

Rye Milk Biscuits . 

Sally Lunn . 

Salt 

Salt Rising 

Salt Rising Bread 

Second Cooking of Bread 

Selecting Flour 

Small Breads 

South Carolina, Golden I.oaf of 

Spring and Winter Wheat . 

Steamed Breads 

Sticks, Bread 

Structure of the Grain 

Sugar 

Swedish Bread 

Sweet Bread Cakes 

To Keep Bread 

Toast 

Cream 

Milk . 

Water 
Unleavened Bread 
Vienna Rolls 
Water Toast 
Wheat 

Care of the Grain 

Flour, analysis 

Milling 

Spring and Winter 

Structure of the Grain 
White Bread . 
Whole Wlieat Flour . 
Whole Wheat Gems 
Whole Wheat Milk Biscuit 
Yeast .... 

Home-made 
Zwieback 



List of Household Books 

Published by 
Arnold & Company 



Mrs. Rarer s Cook Book 

A Manual of Home Economies. By 

Mrs. S. T. Rorer, Principal of the Phila- 
deljDhia Cooking School, author of Canning 
and Preserving, Hot Weather Dishes, etc. 
i2mo, nearly 600 pages, with portrait of 
the author and elaborate index ; water- proof 
and grease-proof covers, ;^i.75- 

This is an eminently practical 
book. It embodies the experience 
and study of the author in all the 
years that she has been teaching 
and lecturing so successfully before 
the public. The book has become 
as famous as the author. It is a 
standard of excellence, in that it 
is full of the brightest things in 
cookery ; the recipes are absolutely 
reliable, and the general instruc- 
tions to housekeepers of the most 
helpful and necessary character. 



Canning and Preserving 

By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. 
Rorer's Cook Book, Hot Weather Dishes, 
etc. 121110., with index, cloth covers, 
75 cents; paper covers, 40 cents. 

In this volume Mrs. Rorer dis- 
cusses at greater length than is 
allowed in the limits of her work 
on cooking in general, the canning 
and preserving of fruits and vege- 
tables, with the kindred subjects 
of marmalades, butters, fruit J2nies 
and syrups, drying and pickling. 
As in her Cook Book, the recipes 
are clearly and simply given, 
while an exhaustive index affords 
easy reference to every subject. 

"A useful little volume for the 
preserving season. Mrs. Rorer's 
exhaustive information on the sub- 
jects of preserves, pickles, jellies, 
syrups, and canned goods gener- 
ally, is here placed at the service 
of the public in a cheap and 
convenient form. ' ' — Philadelphia 
Inquirer. 



Hot Weather Dishes 

By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. 
Rorer's Cook Book, Canning and Preserv- 
ing, etc. i2mo., with index, cloth covers, 
75 cents; paper covers, 40 cents. 

Its name tells the whole story. 
It is the only book of the kind. 
Hot weather seems to suspend the 
inventive faculty of even the best 
housekeepers, and at a season 
when the appetite needs every 
help and encouragement this book 
will be found of the greatest use. 
Full of suggestions for tempting 
and dainty dishes, with recipes 
for presenting the substantial in 
palatable forms. Contains a com- 
plete index to all the recipes. 

" A seasonable and appetizing 
book, entitled Hot Weather 
Dishes, by Mrs. Rorer, has just 
been issued. It contains table 
recipes for summer use. Salads, 
vegetables, dishes of hot, or pre- 
viously prepared meats, piquant 
sauces, fruit omelets and summer 
desserts are particularly attract- 
ive." — Philadelphia Ledger. 



Made-Over Dishes 

How to transform the left overs into 
palatable and wholesome dishes. With 
many new and valuable recipes. By 
Mrs. S. T. RORER, author of Mrs. 
Rorer's Cook Book, New Salads, etc. 
Long i6mo., index; cloth, 50 cents. 

We quote from the author's introduction : 
"Economical marketing does not 
mean the purchase of inferior 
articles at a cheap price, but of a 
small quantity of the best materials 
found in the market; these mate- 
rials to be wisely and economically 
used. Small quantity and no 
waste, just enough and not a piece 
too much, is a good rule to remem- 
ber. In roasts and steaks, how- 
ever, there will be, in spite of 
careful buying, bits left over, that 
if economically used, may be con- 
verted into palatable, sightly and 
wholesome dishes for the next 
day's lunch or supper. 

"Never purchase the so-called 
tender meat for stews, Hamburg 
steaks or soups; nor should you 
purchase a round or shoulder 
steak for broiling, nor an old 
chicken for roasting. Select a fowl 
for a fricassee, a chicken for roast- 
ing, and a so-called spring chicken 
for broihng. Each has its own 
individual price and place." 



Cakes^ Cake Decorations 
and Desserts 

A Manual for Housewives. Simple and 
up to date. By Charles H. King. 
i2mo., illustrated by engravings of 
numerous decorated pieces, with a sil- 
houette chart for the guidance of the 
learner ; bound in cloth, stamped, ;^i.50. 

Mrs. Rorer says of this book : 

" It has every virtue necessary 
for a home manual, is simple, 
plain and economical. The plates, 
so well described, will enable 
even an inexperienced person 
after a few trials to ice and 
decorate a cake, equal to an 
expert. Mr. King has covered 
the entire field of cake-baking, 
cake-decorating, sugar-boiling and 
sugar-spinning, with recipes for 
fine candies. The book con- 
tains twenty-one plates and many 
patterns. I know of no other 
book which covers this field, and 
advise those doing fancy work 
to secure its help." 



Household Accounts 

A simple method of recording the daily 
expenses of the family. Printed and 
ruled in excellent form, and bound in 
manilla boards, 25 cents. 

This is perhaps the best book 
of the kind ever introduced. With 
it there is an end to disputes 
with the butcher or groceryman on 
settling day. The book contains 
ruled pages, systematically and 
simply divided into spaces in 
which are kept the purchases for 
each day of milk, butter, eggs, 
meat, groceries, vegetables, etc. 
The daily expenses total up for 
the months, and the months for 
the year. There are other forms 
for recording expenses of help, 
light, heat and general house- 
hold expenditures in table and 
bed linens, china and kitchen 
utensils, etc. 

Mrs. Rorer says it is what 
every housekeeper ought to have. 
It is not only a satisfactory method 
of knowing the cost of maintain- 
ing the household, but it leads to 
a better economy in expenditure. 



)9*cA4 WQI 



1 copy DEL. TO CAT. DIV. 
DEC. 14 1901 



OEC. 19 1902 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



